Picking the right type of hiking boot

Choosing the right pair of hiking boots can mean the difference between bloody heels, blisters on your toes and bunions long term. Everyone’s feet are different, sure but there are a few concepts that apply in most every case and can really give you a head start in finding the right boots. My goal is to share what I’ve learned from years of experience hiking and working retail here and get your input and feedback in the comments below. Let’s get started!

First off, let’s match the type of hiking and environment you’ll be going to with boot structure and materials. If you aren’t familiar with the different parts of a hiking boot then check out my hiking boot guide and jump back here. Listed below are bullet points meant to help you match your hiking style with a particular boot. In general though, low top boots with more flexible toe boxes and midsoles are for shorter hikes less than 8 miles. As you work your way up to longer hikes a stiffer midsole and higher top will provide support and help your toe joints manage the load and increased stress of walking.

• Light hiking < 8 miles round trip – low top boots are acceptable here, especially if you aren’t carrying more than 15 pounds in a pack. Softer midsoles and toe boxes mean your feet can “feel” the trail but may tire more easily.
• Medium hiking > 8 to 25 miles round trip – high top boots are recommended, especially if you’re carrying a pack in the 50 pound range. Stiffer midsole and toe box help you manage long distances and heavy packs, shifting motion from the smaller muscles of your toes and ankle to your calves, theighs and knees.
• Heavy hiking 25+ miles – high top boots strongly recommended, especially when carrying packs (this may not apply if you are running a trail and not bearing heavy load). Mountaineering boots are extremely stiff in the toe box, midsole and upper and may feel more like a ski boot. As with medium hiking boots this design shifts stress away from the smaller muscles in your foot and ankle up to your legs.

Now that we’ve broken down the types of boots and expanded on stiffness and ankle support, let’s talk about membranes. You’ve probably heard of GORE-TEX, it’s a fabric that gets woven into clothing, coats, shoes and other outerwear to keep water from leaking in. This is a great feature if you hike near water or in wet environments. Keep in mind that GORE-TEX also adds stiffness to a boot’s upper and in turn support for your foot. The downside to the stiffness of GORE-TEX and other waterproofing membranes is that they may dig into your feet more and take longer to break in. Waterproof membranes are also known for decreasing ventilation and many men complain that they make boots hot to wear.

When you hike, your foot warms up and expands, you also sweat and that factors into how your boot fits and rubs on your feet. Make sure you’ve got the right pair of socks for the distance and climate of the trail you’re on. Always bring a couple of band-aids if you don’t hike often and consider moleskin if you already have a sensitive spot. When you do buy a new pair of hiking boots, wear them at home several times before taking them out for a longer hike. This will help to break them in and toughen your feet up.

Hiking boots are built around “lasts” or foot models that determine how they will fit. Different brands fit differently and are known for being wide, narrow, stiff, supportive etc. etc. and I’ve tried to share some of that knowledge below so you know where to start when you get to the store.

• Keen – this company started out making sandals and has slowly moved upstream to shoes and boots. They really only extend into the medium hiker range and are known for having a wide toebox. Try these out if you aren’t hiking over 10 miles regularly and prefer a relaxed fit for a wider foot.
• Merrell – a favorite among hikers, this company makes medium to wide fitting hiking boots and delivers a range of stiffness. If you’re hiking short distances and don’t need waterproofing look at the Moab Ventilator, if you’re going further and need support and waterproofing try the Radius, Phaser Peak or Outbound Mid.
• Vasque – known for producing narrow boots with extra support. This company’s line extends into the heavy duty but doesn’t fit well on wider feet most of the time
• Asolo – one of the highest end hard core boot makers, look for these if you’re into mountaineering or need something with a lot of stiffness, width is average
• Garmont – produces high quality mid to heavy hiking boots. Known for adding extra support and padding to their boots, offering great midsoles and uppers that will last years. One of my favorite boots is a Garmont.

The way a boot fits is also important but somewhat subjective. In general, a boot should not be flopping around on your foot. You can measure how snug it is by untying the boot completely and sliding your foot forward so your toes touch the tip, now dig your pointer finger into the back behind your heel. If you can just get it in that’s a good fit, if you can wiggle it around a lot (especially down near the base) you might want to try a half size down. The real challenge here becomes width. I know plenty of people who wear hiking boots that are a bit too big length wise but just right width wise. Buying hiking boots that are a bit too long in order to make them fit your toes and width is a strategy that can work well, especially for high tops where the ankle lacing will keep you from sliding forward.

That’s it! Please add your questions, comments and suggestions below so this guide can help fellow hikers choose the best boots for their level and environment.

Three different hiking boot examples.

Believe it or not, hiking boots are fairly complex. They incorporate many materials of varying water resistance, flexibility and durability to create a foundation for your foot, your legs and ultimately your entire body. Understanding how a hiking boot is put together, what features it provides, and what to look for can be the difference between accomplishing a 10 mile hike and enjoying the outdoors or getting blisters, bruises, a bloody heel or ending up with bunions from repeated abuse. Let’s start out by defining the parts of a boot so we can refer to them later and begin to understand their purpose.

1. Last – a foot shaped mold that hiking boot manufacturers use to build boots around, sort of like a shoe mannequin. Vasque tends to use narrower lasts, Keen has wider lasts (since they started out focused on sandals meant to free your foot) and Merrell is known for using lasts of average width which is part of why they are one of the most popular brands and most commonly seen on the trail.
2. Upper – the outer part of the boot covering the top of your foot, usually made from leather, fabric materials or a combination of both. The upper protects against scrapes, dirt, water, and anything else that might otherwise come into contact with your foot. It connects to the edges of the outsole and forms the boot housing. Without an upper you’d be left with a sandal or thong, and that’s no good for serious hiking!
3. Outsole – the rubber part of the boot on the bottom that protects your foot and grips the trail, also referred to as simply the “sole”. Vibram is a very popular brand of outsole that many hiking boots feature, it is a composite rubber that is designed to be very rugged and long lasting while still providing excellent grip. Named after its founder, Vitale Bramani, Vibram is credited with producing the first rubber soles for boots and was inspired by the tragic deaths of six mountaineers (friends of Vitale) who had inadequate grip.
4. Achilles Notch – the cutout area at the top back end of the boot, where the achilles tendon runs in your ankle. Designed to help prevent and relieve achilles pressure on long descents, an important feature for anyone with achilles discomfort or Tendonitis.
5. Rocker – a gentle curve in the footbox / toe area of the sole that allows the boot to roll naturally forward as steps are taken. Depending on the stiffness of the midsole and upper the rocker may bend at your toes or be completely stiff. Imagine that your boot is a chair resting on the ground, rocker allows it to roll forward and back like the legs of a rocking chair instead of just remaining static. This is important in higher end trekking boots because they are so stiff that there is no other way to smoothly transition forward without rolling and “rocking” the boot.
6. Rubber Band – a rubberized cap that increases durability on the toe area of the boot. A rubber band will also protects against water and may sometimes be found at the rear heal area of the boot.
7. Lugs – rubber nubs on the bottom of a boot’s outsole designed to help with traction. Larger lugs will last longer but not grip as precisely. Smaller, thinner lugs will wear down quickly, especially on concrete surfaces, but provide more grip under light loads. Notice that light hiking boots usually have narrower lugs and outsole patterns vs. mountaineering boots which have big knobby lugs).
8. Heel – an extended area at the back end of a boot’s outsole designed to provide stopping power and braking. Imagine the heel on high heel shoes, you could really put the brakes on by jabbing them into the mountain… if they didn’t break off so easily :)
9. Notches – indentations on the upper and midsole at the heel and toe ends of a boot designed for use with step in crampons and snowshoes. These usually look like ridges or little ledges that you could connect straps to on the outside of a boot. 95% of light and mid hiking boots don’t have notches, it’s really just for high end mountaineering boots and snow boots. More pronounced notches can be found on cross country and downhill ski boots.
10. Exoskeleton – just like insects and crustaceans, boots can feature hard plastic, rubber or fabric exoskeleton that protects vulnerable areas and reinforces foot support & fit by connecting to laces and buckles.
11. Midsole – This part of a boot rests on top of the outsole and is connected to the upper. Simply put, it’s what your insole rests on and what provides strength and support for your foot! The midsole provides structure, arch support, and padding and can be made of foam, rubber, metal or hard plastic (usually a combination of several materials working together). It will be stiffer for backpacking and long distance boots, to the point that you can hardly bend it. Consider this, as weight and distance bear down on the tiny bones and joints of your toes, more discomfort and fatigue will occur. For this reason stiffer midsoles are required to shift movement and work from your toes and arch to larger muscles in your calves and thighs. Most light hiking boots and running shoes use EVA foam in their insoles which is lighter and more shock absorbent but shorter lived (it lasts ~500 miles or about 2 years). You can tell when EVA is wearing down because it will start to show wrinkles and crease marks along the side of the boot. Polyurethane is a popular alternative and the standard in higher end hiking boots that lasts longer, won’t pack down and provides more support (usually 5 to 8 years or as long as the rest of the boot).
12. Insole – this is the thin piece of foam or rubber that sits on top of the midsole and actually comes into contact with your foot. Most shoes and boots feature removable insoles that can be replaced to alter arch support or provide more comfort. Popular hiking insole replacements include Sole and Superfeet.
13. Heel Counter – a rigid cup that sits inside the upper and inner lining of the heal of a hiking boot. Although this piece cannot be seen it can be felt when boots are put on and will stabilize the foot and provide support for the heel. Sometimes on older boots, as internal fabrics and foams wear away, you will be able to see the heel counter poking through or possibly even feel it rubbing directly on your heel causing blisters or bleeding.
14. Liner – the layer of fabric and foam connected to the inside of the upper that comes into contact with your foot. Basically, the inside of the boot, padded and coated to add comfort insulation and ventilation.
15. Membrane – a layer of material placed in between the upper “outside of the boot” and liner “inside of the boot” that may provide water proofing or breathability. Popular name brand membranes include GORE-TEX and eVENT. These membranes strive to provide both ventilation and water stopping power by using polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) fabrics. Many people think Gore-Tex is some external layer or coating… let’s get this straight. Imagine that in between the layers of your boot there is a plastic sack glued in so that when you step into a puddle, water won’t leak through the boot to your foot. That’s essentially what these fabric membranes do. In addition to water proofing and ventilation membranes add stiffness to boots and many people complain that they make boots much hotter (due to decreased ventilation) though they are designed to be one way permeable and thus allow for venting. If you’re going somewhere hot and humid consider straying away from waterproof membranes in favor of something with more ventilation. Usually boots with membranes cost a bit more.
16. Tongue – the flap of fabric and foam padding that covers the top of a boot, it is designed to slide inside the upper when laces are tightened and allow for custom fit and flexibility of boots and shoes. Make sure you pull the tongue all the way up when you begin lacing and as you work your way up the boot tuck it back into the sides for maximum comfort.
17. Tongue Gusset – the layer of fabric connecting the sides of the tongue to the upper. This layer is especially important in hiking boots as it provides a seal against dirt, temperature and most importantly water. Remember that your boot can only keep out water using its membrane as high as the tongue gusset goes.

Now that we’ve identified the different components that go into a pair of boots, let’s talk about how to wear them correctly. Most important, you’ll want a good pair of socks. Make sure your socks reach all the way up to the top of your boots ankle support so you have a layer of padding between your skin and the boot liner. Make sure your boots are laced all the way up and held on tight. The idea is for the boot to act as a natural extension of your foot and leg, providing its own support and padding through the insole, midsole and outsole. If you have not laced them up correctly and are relying on movement between your foot and the insole to provide cushioning then it might be time to get a new boot, or at least tie your shoes! Imagine this, the more movement and flexing that your foot endures as you walk, the more tired your joints and muscles will become. You only want flexibility and movement in your foot when using light hiking boots for shorter hikes. Imagine ice skating with a pair of skates that weren’t tied correctly, the weight of your accelerated movement and the instability created by the thin blade could damage your ankle. In the same way, when hiking on loose debris and carrying extra weight your foot needs the support of a correctly worn boot.

The final step in proper hiking boot usage is having a contingency plan. Bring extra socks along with you, consider using Moleskin (an adhesive resin applied directly to the skin in high stress areas). Always bring a band aid or two so if you feel a warm spot or end up with a blister or cut you can apply protection and mitigate the damage. Check out the video and images below for more examples and information.

Garmin Nuvi GPS Fully Mounted

These days portable GPS units have become mainstream, nearly everyone who travels regularly and is out exploring the mountains has one of these so they can mark favorite spots, find new favorites, and even find their way back to the car at the end of the day! One challenge we all face is how best to mount the GPS for maximum visibility, safety and utility.

I’ve considered and tried several mounting options since I bought my first Garmin Nuvi in 2005. The windshield is okay but it leaves a ring when you take it down, worse yet if you just leave the device it becomes an easy theft target. On top of the dash can also work but that still takes up window space and I like having as much visibility as possible, that’s half the fun of driving to and from hikes! I also do my best to avoid running over animals, squirrels and deer when I’m out there and full viewing range is paramount in this pursuit. So what’s the answer?

I’ve finally come to the conclusion that the best place to mount a portable GPS unit in an automatic car is within the heads up display area of the dash board, right in front of the tachometer. In case you’re not sure, the tachometer displays your RPM, how fast your motor is revving, and tells you when to switch gears before you “redline”. Automatic transmission cars show this gauge just like manual’s but really, since the car is doing all of the gear shifting for you, it’s not a very useful tool. You can also tell how hard the engine is revving just by listening and feeling your car. For these reasons, placing your GPS directly in front of the tachometer is a great choice and in my experience much more functional!

After simply trying to attach the stock mounting plate that came with my newest GPS, the Garmin Nuvi 1350T, directly to the underside of the HUD, I realized that both the texture of the plastic and the curved surface in my 2001 Subaru was causing problems. It doesn’t help that I was trying to mount it from the top, gravity is constantly pulling down on the mount and thus making it even harder to fully attach. After one unsuccessful mounting operation I realized that better adhesive was necessary but I didn’t want to use gorilla glue or some other fully permanent, potentially messy solution. I chose Scotch brand outdoor super strong double sided tape which cost $5 at Orchard Supply Hardware.

The cover of Saints EP available on iTunes

The Saints, a Denver, CO based band, recently released a song called Colorado that might appeal to hikers and general outdoor enthusiasts. Much like John Denver’s music which draws inspiration from the Colorado Rocky Mountains, Saints have drawn on the sun setting over the Rockies for their song “Colorado” lyrics posted below.

From sky above, comes into sight, desert fields, and the promise of new life and so I breathe it all in, and my body gasps for air, and my heart pounds my chest and I am blessed to see us standing there, look around you, all of those before you, in a Colorado sunset.

Here comes the sun, see how it shines, splits the wheat, and the shadows cast for weeks into my life, still moment in your hands, and for the first time I can see just what they mean by promised land. Look around you, all of those before you, in a Colorado sunset. Look around you, all of those before you, in a Colorado sunset, a Colorado sunset.

The time has come, for you and I to rise my friend, let’s take the time to see this through, me and you, dawn arise above the westward hills, we’ll find this now, we’ll find it’s true, we’ll find our dreams come true in Colorado sunset, Colorado sunset. Look around you, all of those before you, in a Colorado sunset.

Yeah, look around you, beauty lies beneath you, alive within this moment, a gift from one another, yeah look around you, all of those before you, in a Colorado sunset, a Colorado sunset. Yeah look around you, beauty lies beneath you, alive in this moment, it’s a gift from one another, my love.

Be sure to check out the official Saints website and MySpace to demo more of their music (they have two free tracks posted for people who sign up including the lead song from their EP, “Guiding Light” and the 3rd track, “Listen”) and hear more full songs at thesixtyone.com.

Each month REI’s across the nation have a special used gear sale for members and you can save a ton while still getting relatively new equipment. First of all, becoming a member is only $20 and it’s a lifetime thing so you’ll never have to join again! Once you’re in, just show up Saturday morning (usually the first Saturday of the month) before 10am (when the doors open) and snag some high quality used gear. I’m talking $15 – $25 for shoes and clothes under $20, all of the latest styles and technologies. Worth noting are the Yakima and Thule boxes (perfect for carrying packs and other hiking gear to the mountains when your car is full). These normally retail for several hundred bucks but if you can live with a scratch or dent, or don’t mind fixing the lock you’ll save a bundle.

So where does all of the stuff come from at the REI ding and dent sale? Most of the gear is just stuff that didn’t fit right or had a minor defect, maybe the laces broke on a pair of shoes or the rim on a bike was a little bent. These are the best deals because they’re easily fixable! Sometimes however, the gear really is busted and you’re basically just getting scrap so look close and read the tags as they usually describe why an item was returned.

Another great way to get at some inexpensive hiking gear is Good Will. This organization takes donations from community members looking for a tax write off and filters it through a labor force with special needs. It’s a win win and there are some amazing bargains to be had, my Mom is an avid Good Will hunter (so to speak) and I’m always amazed at what she finds… An old cooler for $5 was the latest score. Often times it’s gear that was donated when a person passed on or just moved to another town and couldn’t fit their old snow shoes, trekking poles, or outerwear.

If you have any useful tips on cheap hiking gear please share them below! REI and Good Will are great because you can actually try stuff on, the internet is a great source for deals but it’s a real bummer when it arrives late or is hard to return because the fit was off. This is especially true for gear that gets worn in rugged environments where blisters and other abrasions may occur.